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1. Plain fabrics: Generally , weaves such as plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and weaves formed on the basis of this organization have no pattern changes on the surface of the tissue. The plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave, also known as the Sanyuan organization, are the foundation of all organizations.
Plain weaves : Plain weave fabrics are used for textile fabrics and most of our fabrics. Most cotton and hemp fabrics are also plain weave fabrics.
Twill weave: It is generally used for silk and silk fabrics in silk fabrics. Khaki in cotton products also uses twill weave.
Satin weave: Wide application in fabrics. Used to compare the basic structure of heavy fabrics and jacquard fabrics. There are more and more applications in cotton fabrics.
2, small jacquard fabric: a small, regular pattern composed of several different tissues. However, the rule of warp lifting cannot exceed 16 pieces. Such fabrics can also be woven on shuttle weaving machines, such as slivers, slivers, double-layered joists, herringbone twills, and the like formed from different tissues.
3, Jacquard fabric: Within a certain range (conventional clothing with silk through the dense × flower buds not more than 1400) There are several different organization of the composition of the cycle of irregular patterns, such fabrics need to use large Jacquard equipment weaving.
1, the representation of silk fabric
(1) Representation of raw materials: The warp and weft of silk fabrics generally use more than two different types of silk yarns, and the processing of silk (yarn) yarns usually employs different processes. Therefore, when the raw material composition is expressed, the processing technology of the raw material is generally indicated. Therefore, the raw material thickness cannot be simply expressed. For example, the warp of a product (1/20/22D silk 8 T/S×2) is 6T/Z cooked and colored. The meaning of the product is : The warp threads are two 1/20/22D mulberry silk per cm. After adding 8 turns to the left and then combining, the two combined threads are added 6 turns per centimeter to the right. The threads are then degummed, dyed, and then re-woven . Therefore, the raw material expression method of the silk fabric requires that the type, specification, and processing technology of the raw material be individually represented.
(2) Density is expressed: The density unit of the fabric is "root/cm", and the multi-layer organization and heavy organization must add the upper and lower weight or the upper or lower latitude or longitude.
(3) Representation of weight: Fabrics are complicated due to their large size, and many commonly used door widths. Such as 75 cm, 90 cm, 114 cm, 140 cm and so on. Therefore, it is usually expressed in square meters and also expressed in international trade.
Square meter = fabric weight ÷ area
Mm (m/m): A common representation of the weight (thickness) of mulberry silk fabrics. It means that the silk fabric is 1 inch wide, 25 yards long, and 2/3 of a day is 1 meter.
Equivalent to metric system:
1 inch = 0.0254 meters 1 yard = 0.9144 meters 1 day line = 3.75 grams
Area: 1 inch × 0.9144 × 25 yards = 0.0254 × 0.9144 × 25 = 0.58064 (m 2 )
Weight: 2/3 daily line = 2.5g
1 m/m=2.5÷0.58064=4.3056 (g/m 2 )
The relationship between m-meters and square meters is:
Mm (m/m) = Square Meters (g/m 2 ) ÷ 4.3056
2, cotton, linen, wool and other fabrics
(1) The specification of cotton and linen fabrics and wool fabrics is relatively simple and is generally expressed as "yarn x yarn count/density x density". The density of such fabrics is generally expressed in "root/inch". Most fabrics do not have a weight indicator, but they are expressed in "ounces per square yard" for denim products:
1 ounce = 28.35 g
1 code = 0.9144 m
Ounces (oz/yd 2 )= Square Meters (g/m 2 )÷ 28.35 × 0.9144×0.9144
(2) The width of the wool fabric is generally between 145-150 cm , so the weight of the fabric can be expressed in grams per meter.
3, interwoven fabric
For the warp yarns, the method is the same as for the filaments. Density is expressed in "root/cm." Fabrics with warp fibers of the warp direction are expressed as staple fibers and the density is expressed as "root/inch".
1, the difference between the latitude and longitude
To get the fabric to be analyzed, the first step is to distinguish the latitude and longitude direction so that the correct and reasonable specifications can be reported. To distinguish the direction of latitude and longitude, you can start from the following aspects:
Density characteristics: The density is generally higher than the weft density.
Fineness characteristics: If the materials used for latitude and longitude are different, the average diameter of the warp and other raw materials is generally finer and the weft is coarser.
Yarn type characteristics: If the warp and weft of the fabric is always a strand (two or more plied), and the other is a single yarn, generally the strand is warp, and the single yarn is weft.
2, identify raw materials
(1) Appearance recognition: mainly observed from the aspects of form, luster, and strength.
Wool: The fiber is relatively fluffy, the luster is soft and natural, and the single fiber (a single yarn or filament composed of multiple single fibers) is thicker. It is better to touch the elasticity by hand, and the hand feels more comfortable.
Silk: natural and soft luster, fineness (indicating the thickness of silk or yarn) is fine, and the strength is relatively high.
Cotton: Gloss is natural, and the fiber has little change in strength under dry and wet conditions, such as: the strength of hand pulling force in the dry state under the pulling force and the wet state is very small.
Hemp: The surface of the fiber is naturally thick and has a harder feel and a cool feeling. In the wet state, the strength is significantly higher than in the dry state.
Viscose: Soft to the touch and less elastic. Especially in wet conditions, the strength is poor.
Copper-ammonia fiber: relatively viscose rayon, the gloss is relatively soft, and the single fiber is fine, and it is the finest single fiber in the cellulose fiber.
Acetate: It is the fiber in cellulose fiber that is closest to mulberry silk, but its strength is relatively poor.
Synthetic fiber: The appearance of gloss is different, and the strength is better under dry and wet conditions.
(2) Combustion
Protein fiber: When burned, it has a similar odor of burning hair. After burning, it produces loose and brittle black balls.
Plant fibers and cellulosic fibers (excluding acetate fibers): No significant odor when burned, leaving grayish-white ash after burning like burning paper.
Acetate: It has a relatively obvious sourness when burned. After burning, the fibers form light-colored lump.
Synthetic fiber: There is no obvious odor when burning, and the fibers form a hard block after burning.
(3) Auxiliary testing method:
The vast majority of fibers can distinguish the type of fiber after using the above two methods. However, with the development of textile technology, finishing technology has also made great breakthroughs. Through various finishings, the surface effects of the fabric have been changed. Therefore, in addition to the above methods, the fiber can be further analyzed by chemical aids and instrumentation to obtain accurate results. If the most commonly used fibers in synthetic fibers are polyester and polyamide, it is difficult to distinguish them visually or visually, but it is easier to distinguish them by using the reaction of two fibers to the acid. If a vial of formic acid solution is prepared, the fibers to be discriminated will be put into the solution, and the nylon will soon dissolve, but the polyester surface will not change.
(4) Microscopic observation method:
Each fiber has a unique long phase, such as a mulberry silk cross-section of irregular triangles; wool fibers and cotton fibers are hollow fibers; there are scales on the surface of the wool; hemp fiber denier is very uneven. While man-made fibers can also be modeled on various cross-sections of natural fibers, the shape and size of cross-sections in a bundle (yarn) are very uniform, and the denier is also very uniform. Therefore, for some fabrics with good appearance simulation and multi-fiber blended fibers that are difficult to distinguish at once, a more accurate result can be obtained by microscopic observation.
3, determine the density of warp and weft
The warp and weft density refers to the number of warp and weft yarns arranged per square inch. As generally seen, "40×40/128×68" indicates that the warp and weft yarns are respectively 40 and the warp and weft density is 128×68. The warp and weft density is generally analyzed using the following method:
(1) Direct measurement method: It is done with a cloth mirror or fabric density analysis mirror. The length of the fabric density analysis mirror is 5cm. Under the analysis lens, a red line is engraved on a long piece of glass. When analyzing the density of the fabric, move the lens to align the red line on the glass plate with the red line on the scale. Between the yarns, starting from this point, the number of yarns on the lens side is moved until the 5 cm mark is used for this purpose. The number of output yarns is multiplied by 2, which is the density value of the 10cm fabric.
When counting the number of yarns, it is necessary to use the center between two yarns as the starting point. If the number is more than 0.5 at the end point, and less than one, the number should be 0.75; if less than 0.5, then Calculated by 0.25 counts. Fabric density should generally be measured 3-4 data, and then take the arithmetic average as the measurement result.
(2) Indirect test method: This method is suitable for the regular density fabrics with a small number of special yarns. Firstly, the number of warp yarns (tissue cycle weft yarns) is analyzed after weaving the tissue and its tissue, and then multiplying by the number of tissue cycles in 10 cm. The resulting product is the warp (weft) yarn density.
4. Denier (strip) analysis :
The purpose of denier analysis is to understand the yarn count of fabrics. The following methods are commonly used:
(1) Weighing method: Take a 90 cm (or multiples of 90 cm) or a long silk (yarn) thread, and determine the milligram (0.01 g) on ​​the balance as the denier (D). If it is a short fiber yarn, it is converted into the corresponding fineness unit.
For example, a 90 cm long silk or yarn weighing 100 mg is 100D.
100D = 9000÷100=90N
100D=5315÷100=53S
Since the fibers to be measured are generally obtained from finished fabrics, from yarns to weaving cloths to dyeing (printing), many processes are required, and each process will have an impact on the weight of the raw materials, such as weaving. Shrinking, dyeing shrinkage, shrinkage with twisting, these will make the unit length of the yarn thicker (heavy), and some processes will make the fiber become fine (light), such as fabrics will be removed after refining The impurities in the fiber such as sericin, grease, etc., will cause some short fibers to fall off in the course of weaving and dyeing; in order to make the softness of the polyester fabric become soft, the use of caustic soda will reduce the amount of the fabric and so on. Therefore, for the above-mentioned yarn (filament) strips, it is necessary to comprehensively adjust the data after inferring the fabric process to obtain a correct number of fineness.
(2) Comparative method: Some samples are very small and cannot obtain a relatively complete yarn (silk) thread; some guests demand that they should not be damaged. In this case, the comparison method can be used. The collection of yarns of some known deniers is compared with yarn counts that need to be known to roughly determine the denier of the fabric.
(3) Filament analysis of special products:
Stretch fabrics: Some fabrics have very large stretch properties. These stretch properties are obtained through the dyeing process. Therefore, the difference in yarn size from yarn to finished product is quite large, and it is generally not easy to grasp. For such fabrics, when measuring the fineness, it is necessary to increase the coefficient according to the size of the stretch factor of the fabric, generally about 20% to 40%.
Polyester simulation fabrics: These types of fabrics are generally reinforced with warp and weft threads. For ease of weaving, the fibers must be shaped after high temperature hardening. Therefore, feel, drape is relatively poor. In order to make the fabric have a good sense of touch and drape, generally in the fabric finishing process to alkali reduction treatment of the fabric, that is, using caustic soda to eroded the fiber surface, then the amount of fiber will be reduced, the process called For "alkaline decrement." The amount of alkali reduction, according to the requirements of the product, light-type fabrics, such as polyester chiffon, Qiaoqi, can reduce some, and linen-like fabrics, satin fabrics can be reduced more. The general alkali reduction is between 15 and 25%. Therefore, for such fabrics, in addition to considering the shrinkage rate of fiber due to twisting when measuring the fineness, the actually measured number of fines should be multiplied by a coefficient of 1.10 to 1.25, so that a correct comparison can be obtained. result.
5, fabric weight analysis
For a large piece of fabric, the fabric can be cut to a size of 10 cm 2 with the help of a tool , and then weighed by the balance. The weight obtained is the weight of the fabric. If for a relatively small sample, the fabric can be cut to a parallelogram, and the weight is divided by the area to obtain the weight of the fabric. The larger the sample, the more accurate the value.
1. Clothing textiles:
Refers to the production of garments and all kinds of textiles and various textile fabrics and sewing thread, elastic band, collar lining and other textile accessories and knitted garments, gloves, socks and so on.
2, decorative textiles:
Refers to indoor products, bedding and outdoor products, including furniture and restaurant toiletries, such as carpets, sofa sets, cushions (sets), tapestries, patches, covers, curtains, towels and so on. Bedding includes bedspreads, sheets, quilts, duvet covers, pillows, quilts, pillowcases, etc. Outdoor supplies include artificial turf.
It can be considered that decorative textiles have more prominent features than other textiles in terms of variety structure, texture pattern, and color matching.
3, industrial textiles:
Refers to textiles that are widely used in the industrial field, such as canopy cloth, gun gun clothing, filter cloths, screens, and road base cloths.
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